San Francisco Tourist
The City by the Bay.
Top Pics
Fisherman’s Wharf, Golden Gate Park, Golden Gate Bridge, Cable Car, Alcatraz, Painted Ladies, Mission Dolores Park, Lombard St, SFMOMA, AT&T Park, de Young Museum, Blue Bottle, Bi-Rite Creamery, Four Barrel coffee, Sightglass coffee, Mikkeller, Dog Eared Books, The Endup, Golden State Warriors, Hot Cookie
nearby: Napa, Oakland, Yosemite
About
Yerba Buena (“good herb” in Spanish — ironic given current pot culture) was the name of the town in the 1776 Mexican territory of Alta California that became the city of San Francisco when claimed by the United States in 1846. Named after St. Francis of Assisi, nicknames include SF, San Fran, Frisco (St. Louis–San to Francisco Railway), and Baghdad by the Bay (a nod to the ancient multicultural city near Babylon).
Surrounded by the world’s largest landlocked bay, which on average, is only as deep as a swimming pool. Large ships must follow dredged channels. Retaining an active fishing industry — renowned for Dungeness crab.
Just seven-by-seven miles with a population of over 800,000 (the entire Bay Area population exceeds 7 million) it’s one of the top 100 visited cities in the world, with tourism accounting for every one in seven jobs. Consistently ranked as a top ‘livable city’ despite the largest homeless population (by percentage) in the US. Fourth in the world for number of billionaires and more dogs than children (by around 10,000)!
Home to the oldest Chinatown and Japantown (only three remaining) in America. The California flag bear was modeled after a grizzly in Golden Gate Park named Monarch, who was stuffed and last on display in 2012. Whilst known for having seven main hills, there are in fact 44. Filbert (not Lombard) Street is the steepest at 31.5 degrees. Has a law forbidding the use of underwear for washing cars. Washington Square Park has five sides. North Beach is not a beach. The statue in Washington Park is of Benjamin Franklin. During the Gold Rush, turtles and tortoises were imported (as a source of fresh meat) and could often be seen racing the streets. In Star Trek, Star Fleet HQ is located just north of the city. The city fog has a name — Karl the Fog — with hundreds of thousands of followers on social media! Headquarters of Levi Strauss, Gap (1969), Salesforce, Fitbit, Dropbox, Reddit, Square, Dolby, Airbnb, Pacific Gas, Yelp, Pinterest, Twitter, Uber, Lyft, Mozilla, Craigslist and five major banks.
The highest proportion gay population (6%) of any US metro area, and home to many firsts — gay village (The Castro), lesbian-rights organization (Daughters of Bilitis), openly gay person to run for public office, openly lesbian judge, and transgender police commissioner. Harvey Milk was the first openly gay elected official in California.
* Asterisk denotes a place I haven’t yet visited properly.
History
In 1849, the Californian Gold Rush made it the largest city on the West Coast (from 300 to 25,000 people in just two years, 95% men, abandoned boats were torn apart and repurposed into buildings). In 1849, one of America’s first famous prostitutes, Ah Toy, arrived from China. In 1859, an eccentric resident proclaimed himself the Emperor Norton of the United States (humored, currency issues at his frequented establishments). In 1860, the oldest US athletic club, The Olympic Club, was founded. In 1867, America’s first “ugly law” passed prohibiting unsightly people from appearing in public! In 1889, the coin-operated phonograph (precursor to the jukebox) was installed at the Palais Royale Saloon — costing a nickel it earned over $1,000 in the first six months. In 1900, the first American bubonic plague epidemic broke out in Chinatown. In 1902, burials were outlawed due to space scarcity (only two cemeteries remain). In 1905, street names on appeared on sidewalks (street signs didn’t appear until the 1920s, many misspellings). In 1906, an earthquake destroyed three-quarters of the city (most of the damage from resulting fires, the first major disaster well-documented by photograph). In 1908, a gay bar in North Beach where men dressed in drag as waitresses and would reportedly perform various sex acts for a dollar. In 1915, hosted the Panama-Pacific International Exposition (19 million visitors over 9 months, Liberty Bell displayed from Pennsylvania).
During WWII, a major port for war in the Pacific. In 1945, birthplace of the United Nations. In 1954, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” was written by gay couple and made famous by Tony Bennett in 1962. In 1966, The Beatles held their last full concert. In 1966, one of the first gay riots. In 1967, the “Summer of Love” (actually started during Winter) movement saw as many as 100,000 people gather in opposition to the Vietnam War. In 1968, a Japanese pilot crash-landed in the Bay (reportedly saying “As you Americans say, I fucked up.”). In 1990, the accordion was voted the city’s official instrument. In 2013, hosted the America’s Cup.
Birthplace of Pisco Punch (1830s), riveted jeans (1873, Levi, sold to gold diggers), chop suey (1878, during the first Chinese Viceroy visit), slot machines (1887–1895), fortune cookies (1890s, by a Japanese resident), popsicles (1905, accident), Murphy beds (1918), cathode ray tube (1927), It’s-It (1928, ice-cream), the bendy straw (1937), Irish coffee (1952), and the waterbed (1968).
Notable San Francisco residents include Bill Graham (music promoter), Ansel Adams (photographer), Clint Eastwood, Bruce Lee, Alicia Silverstone, Danny Glover, Natalie Wood, Jerry Garcia (Grateful Dead), Robert Frost (poet), Joe DiMaggio (baseball), William Randolph Hearst (newspaper) and O.J. Simpson.
Notable annual events include Bay to Breakers (1912, race and costumed march), the San Francisco Marathon (more then 21,000 participants), Escape from Alcatraz triathlon (1980), San Francisco Pride (1972), Rose Parade (flowers), BYOWB (Bring Your Own Big Wheel, race down Vermont Street) and the Masturbate-a-thon — with a record of more than ten hours!
Map
Areas
Maiden Lane was once Morton Street, lined with brothels and known for no police unless there was a murder. Many SoMa (South of Market) alleys named after prostitutes (e.g. Dore, Cora, Jessie, Isis, Minna).
Alamo Square
Four city blocks at the top of a hill overlooking much of downtown, named after a lone cottonwood (“alamo” in Spanish) tree. Featured in The Invasion of the Body Snatchers, The Five-Year Engagement and the opening sequence to Full House.
Baker Beach
Former a military fortification (the remains of Battery Chamberlain) and now a nude beach. Site of Burning Man from 1986 to 1990.
Castro
Previously known as Eureka Valley and now named after the Castro theatre, one of the first gay neighborhoods in the US following the dishonorable discharge of thousands of gay servicemen from the Pacific during WWII. Men lined up along 18th Street after the bars closed was referred to as “The Meat Rack” — looking for someone to go home with. LGBT Walk of Fame plaques. In 1963, the first gay (Missouri Mule) bar opened. In the late 1970s, the “Castro clone” fashion of butch working-class construction emerged. In the 1980s, hit hard by the AIDS crisis.
Chinatown
The oldest in the United States — a single block between Jackson and Pacific was thought to contain half dozen opium dens, three dozen houses of prostitution, and three gambling parlors. The Dragon’s Gate gateway was donated by Taiwan in 1970.
Haight-Ashbury
“The Haight” or “Upper Haight” is named after an intersection and is the origin of hippie counterculture during the 1960s. First ever “head shop” opened in 1966 selling marijuana and LSD; Hunter S. Thompson referred to the area as “Hashbury.” Jefferson Airplane, the Grateful Dead, and Janis Joplin all lived in the area. In the 1980s, a small coffee house helped launch the careers of Robin Williams, Dana Carvey, and Whoopi Goldberg.
Lands End
Tribe lands, Spanish settlement, fashionable luxury resort (following the Gold Rush) and now park with hiking trails (following former railways), USS San Francisco memorial, Sutro Bath ruins, batteries (Lobos, Chester), Fort Miley, Holocaust Memorial, Memorial for Peace, and lookouts (Eastern Coastal Trail, Mile Rock Beach, Lands End Trail) over the Golden Gate Bridge — where numerous shipwrecks can be seen during low tide. At Eagle’s Point lies a hidden labyrinth art piece (rebuilt 2015) inspired by the nearby circular winding path composed of small stones (only found in the salt mines of Poland) anonymously constructed during the early 20th century.
Mission
Originally a mission known as the “Mission lands” — after which it hosted bull and bear fighting, horse racing, and dueling. A zoo called Woodward’s Gardens once covered two blocks. Site of the first professional baseball stadium in California, with some remains in Garfield Square. One of the most concentrated lesbian neighborhoods in the 1980s. Home of the Mission (extra large) burrito. Hub for Mexican food and local artists, with many murals in Balmy and Clarion alleys.
Tenderloin
High crime (particularly violent street crime) and high sex work area named after a New York neighborhood with similar characteristics. Madame Tessie Wall opened her first brother in 1898 and by the 1920s the neighborhood was notorious for its gambling, billiard halls, boxing gyms, speakeasies, theaters, restaurants and other nightlife. The Black Hawk jazz club hosted records recorded by Miles Davis and Thelonious Monk. In 1933, female impersonator Ray Bourbon was arrested during the live radio show “Boys will be Girls.”
Mission San Francisco de Asís* (1791)
The oldest surviving structure in San Francisco (reported to have used tribe slave labor), named after St. Francis of Assisi and commonly known as “Mission Dolores.” One of two surviving buildings where Junípero Serra is known to have officiated (sculpture installed 1918). Operates as a museum and active congregation in the basilica built in 1913.
Union Square (1850)
Originally an elevated sand dune named for its use as a rally point for Union armies during the Civil War. At the center stands the 85-foot tall Dewey Monument complete with 9-foot statue of Nike — ancient Greek Goddess of Victory.
The ceremonial “heart” of the city hosting public concerts, art shows, protests, parties — plus a winter ice rink, Christmas tree and Menorah lighting. Beginning in 2009, painted heart sculptures from the Hearts in San Francisco public art installation have been installed in each of the four corners of the square then auctioned off for charity.
Area surrounded by department stores, upscale boutiques, galleries, French Quarter, financial and theatre districts. The nearby Westin St. Francis is the only hotel in the world to still offer a literal money laundering (i.e. coin washing) service! Featured in Vertigo, The Birds, The Conversation and Invasion of the Body Snatchers.
Fisherman’s Wharf (mid-1800s)
Originally the site of the “Fish King” — the Paladini Fish Company whose success formed the base of the city’s fishing fleet. Popular tourist destination since the 1970s, it encompasses Pier 39 (sea lion colony of as many as 1,700, floating Forbes Island restaurant), Cannery Shopping Center, Ghirardelli Square, Ripley’s Believe it or Not, Musée Mécanique, a wax museum, Balclutha (19th century cargo ship), USS Pampanito (WWII submarine), and the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park. Featured in the film A View to Kill.
One of the city’s most popular figures is a harmless but controversial resident called the World Famous Bushman — a local street performer who has been startling people for the past 30 years.
Golden Gate Park (1860s)
Former sand dunes known as the Outside Land, named after the nearby Golden Gate Strait. One-fifth larger than Central Park, it’s the fifth most visited park in the US. Contains the Japanese Tea Garden (1894), Queen Wilhelmina tulip garden (a gift from the Queen herself), a pair of windmills installed in 1903 (restored 1981 and 2011) to pump water throughout the park, Botanical Garden (1940), de Young museum (2005), Academy of Sciences (2008), archery range, bison paddock, boathouse, polo field — and Music Concourse open-air plaza built for the 1894 Exposition, which contains the Spreckels Temple of Music (the “Bandshell”).
Once home to a free-range zoo with elks, bears, goats and buffalo (the only animals to remain). The pair of columns at the 19th Avenue entrance are remnants of the 1923 Breon Gate, removed to widen the thoroughfare. The park commissioner refused to retire and worked well into his 70s, living in the park lodge until dying at age 96. In 1967, the Panhandle (far east end) was the site of the Human Be-In — a precursor to the Summer of Love.
Presidio Park (1860s)
Originally “El Presidio Real de San Francisco” or “The Royal Fortress of Saint Francis” is a former 1776 military fortification (the longest continuously operated military installation in the US) turned park in 1994.
Contains Fort Point (a 1861 fort located under the Golden Gate Bridge), Visitor Center (in a historic 1890 Coast Guard Station), Battery Howe-Wagner (1895), Battery Cranston (1897), Battery Crosby (1900), Battery Chamberlin (1904 battery, now a museum), Crissy Field (2001), Walt Disney Family Museum (2009), House of Air trampoline park (2010), Golden Gate Bridge Pavilion (2012, 75th anniversary of the bridge), WWII memorial, 3/4 mile outdoor track, Spire sculpture* (Andy Goldsworthy), El Polin Spring* (natural spring), beaches and vistas overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay (Immigrant Point, Golden Gate Overlook).
The San Francisco Cable Car (1873)
The world’s last manually operated cable car system was established between 1873 and 1890 and had up to 23 lines — of which only 3 remain. Cars are pulled by cables running below the street and must be rotated on turntables (called “turnarounds”) to reverse direction at each end. Each July, a cable car bell-ringing contest is held in Union Square. The only National Historical Monument that can move. $7 per ride.
Conservatory of Flowers* (1879)
The oldest building in Golden Gate Park is an elaborate Victorian greenhouse and botanical garden housing a collection 1,700 plants — many of which are rare and exotic plus those over 100 years old. One of the first municipal conservatories in the US, it used a prefabricated design and was originally meant for a private residence. The central dome stands 60-feet tall, weighs 14.5 tonnes and has 16,800 window panes. Overlooks Conservatory Valley.
Opened with the only known giant water lily in the country. In 1995 a series of large storms blew out 30,000 glass panes, shattered the dome, and 15% of the collection was lost due to exposure.
Ocean Beach (1884)
Previously part of the Outside Lands, a steam railroad was in place by 1884 to transport people for concerts, dances, and to the “Gravity Railroad” — the city’s first amusement park (demolished 1972). A refugee camp after the 1906 earthquake. Popular surf beach with cold water and treacherous currents — in 1998, a record seven people drowned.
In 1878, a shipwreck occurred just off-shore (last spotted in 2010). In 2011, hosted the Rip Curl Pro surfing competition where Kelly Slater won his only US title.
William Westerfeld House* (1889)
Historic home built by the successful confectioner. In 1928, a group of Czarist Russians turned the ground-floor ballroom into a nightclub called Dark Eyes leading to the nickname the “Russian Embassy”. Home of John Handy (jazz) and frequently visited by members of the Grateful Dead.
Alfred E. Clarke Mansion* (1891)
Known as “Caselli Mansion,” “Nobby Clarke’s Castle” and “Nobby Clarke’s Folly.” Survived the 1906 earthquake, briefly a hospital, and since 1909 fifteen highly sought-after (years on the waiting list) apartments. No two rooms are alike (Victorian, Rococo, Continental, Eastern, Parisian, etc.).
Japanese Tea Garden* (1894)
The oldest public Japanese garden in the US was created for 1894 Exposition by an Australian immigrant. The tea house has been rebuilt several times and the five-tiered pagoda moved from its original spot about sixty feet away. Features a drum bridge and rock garden.
During WWII, it was renamed to the Oriental Tea Garden, Japanese servers were replaced with Chinese, and the original Shinto shrine and family home were demolished. Renamed back in 1952 after the 1951 Japanese Peace Treaty was signed in the city. In 1953, the Japanese Counsel General donated a 9,000 pound Lantern of Peace.
Painted Ladies (1896)
“Postcard Row” of “Painted Ladies” — Victorian and Edwardian houses painted in three or more colors to embellish architectural details — built between 1892 and 1896. Featured in over 70 films and the opening credits of Full House.
Ferry Building (1898)
A ferry terminal, 660-foot (Great Nave) public space, historic mosaic tiling (second floor), food hall (Fishermen’s Grotto, Pompei’s Grotto and Alioto’s go back three generations), and 245-foot clock tower. The original Special #4 clock was constructed in 1898 (refurbished 2000) and is the largest mechanical clock in the world with a 16-foot pendulum and four twenty-two foot dials — it can run for eight days once wound. Hosts the city’s best-known farmers market.
Mission Dolores Park (1906)
Formerly Mission Park until 2016, the former Jewish cemetery is a “leave no trace” park with elevated views. In 1906–07, the park served as a refugee camp for more than 1,600 families made homeless by the 1906 earthquake. Gathering place for smoking on 4/20 day.
Cliff House* (1908)
Fifth incarnation on the site, with the first building constructed in 1858 from salvaged lumber from a shipwreck in the cliffs below. In 1887, a shipwreck dynamite explosion damaged the north wing and was heard a hundred miles away. In 1894, the building was completely destroyed by fire. In 1896 a nearby seven-story Sutro bath house was built. In 1899, the first ship-to-shore transmission using Morse Code took place. In 1905, the first radio voice transmission to a house 1.5 miles away. In 1906, the building survived the earthquake with little damage but burned to the ground a year later! In 1908, the current Cliff House restaurant was built. During the 1960s, the basement was home to the Musée Mécanique. In 1966, the Sutro Baths (ironically) burned to the ground. In 2003, extensively restored to its 1909 appearance.
The site has also witnessed a two-mile race horse speedway and three Presidents as guests. The Sutro Baths included six large indoor swimming pools, museum, skating rink, and pleasure grounds. The current Cliff House features two restaurants (bistro and formal) and during the 2013 government shutdown the owners defied an order by the Parks Service to close the restaurant. Contains a room-sized camera obscura. Featured in the novel The Scarlet Plague.
The Emporium Dome (1908, reopened 2006)
Former flagship of The Emporium department store, which ran for 99 years. Reopened in 2006 as an extension of Westfield following a $440 million restoration of the facade and dome.
San Francisco Armory (1914)
Known as the “San Francisco National Guard Armory and Arsenal” or simply “The Armory,” is an armory with 40,000-square-foot drill court with 33,500-foot hardwood maple floor. “Madison Square Garden of the West” was a sporting venue from the 1920s through 1940s and over its history has hosted prize fights, roller derby, The Chemical Brothers, films (spaceship scenes from The Empire Strikes Back), and most recently fetish pornography (Kink.com)!
City Hall* (1915)
Over 500,000-square-feet occupying two full city blocks with a dome 42 feet taller than the United States Capitol. Plaques at the Mall entrance commemorate Washington’s farewell and Lincoln’s Gettysburg addresses. Bronze busts of Moscone and Milk, who were assassinated in the building.
In 1954, Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe were married here. Featured in a scene of Invasion of the Body Snatchers. Dirty Harry, The Towering Inferno, A View to Kill, Milk, and a scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark.
San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center* (1920)
SFWMPAC is one of the largest performing arts centers in the US, with a total of 7,500 seats. The “War Memorial” name commemorates all the people who served in the First World War. Comprised of the War Memorial Opera House (1932, San Francisco Opera — second-largest in US, San Francisco Ballet), Veterans Building (1932, SFMOMA until 1994), Davies Symphony Hall (1980, San Francisco Symphony) and Zellerbach Rehearsal Hall.
In 1945, following a two-month conference in the Opera House, the United Nations Charter was signed in the Veterans Building. In 1951, the Treaty of San Francisco was signed in the Opera House formally ending World War II hostilities with Japan.
Castro Theatre* (1922)
A 1,400 seat movie palace with the last known “leatherette” (a lost technique giving the appearance of leather) ceiling in the world. Features a “Mighty Wurlitzer” pipe organ (played before films) and an icon large neon “Castro” sign (restored for appearance in the film Milk).
Currently hosts repertory movies, film festivals, and special events such as galas. One of the few theaters in the world that can show a 70 mm film with separate DTS soundtrack.
Lombard Street (1922)
“The crookedest street in the world” is a steep (27% grade), one-block road with eight hairpin turns. Not the steepest street in the city.
Golden Gate Theatre* (1922, reopened 1979)
Opened as the 2,300-seat Golden Gates Theatre — a vaudeville house. Transitioned to a major movie theatre boasting a Cinerama screen during the 1960s boasting, and declined to showing blaxploitation films in the 1970s before reopening as a performing arts venue in 1979 (first performance was A Chorus Line).
Hosted The Andrew Sisters, Louis Armstrong, Nat King Cole, Roy Rogers, The Three Stooges, Ethel Waters and Frank Sinatra. Broadway shows include South Pacific, Fiddler on the Roof, Hedwig and the Angry Inch, Sweeney Todd, Stomp, Hairspray, Mamma Mia!, Chicago, Rent — and previews of Legally Blonde: The Musical, Cabaret, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat and My Fair Lady. Sixth floor currently a WeWork office.
Curran Theatre (1922, reopened 2017)
Theatre and light opera house that has hosted more pre-Broadway than any other theatre in the city. Lobby ceiling hand-painted to look like wood, lobby marble floor covered in carpeting, telephone booths now used for storage, and the remnants of a central vacuum system.
Notable plays include Annie, A Chorus Line (2006), Dame Edna: Back With a Vengeance (2004), Gigi (1973), Hugh Jackman in Performance (2011), La Boheme (Baz Luhrmann’s production) (2002), Lennon (2006), Martin Short: Fame Becomes Me (2006), Oliver! (1962), Peter Pan (1954), Wicked (2003), Les Misérables, Jersey Boys and The Phantom of the Opera.
Legion of Honor* (1924)
The former The California Palace of the Legion of Honor is a full-scale replica of the 1915 French Pavilion constructed for the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition — which in turn was a 3/4 scale version of the Hôtel de Salm in Paris. Dedicated to the Californian men who died during World War I. Featured in the film Vertigo and book Tales of the City.
Features views over the Golden Gate bridge and a collection spanning 6,000 years of European Art. Highlights include Icon of Saints John the Baptist and Minias (di Lorenzo), The Thinker (Rodin), Rembrandt, Rubens, Degas, Renoir, Monet, Cézanne, and Picasso. Above the main galleries is a 1924 symphonic organ with 4,526 pipes.
Orpheum Theatre* (1926)
Originally the Pantages Theatre then Palace West, a musical theatre venue seating over 2,200 patrons. Features a Wurlitzer organ upstairs, original upper-level seats, Peacock Staircase (fan pattern on the ceiling), huge basement women’s bathroom, and a set of doors open right into City Hall — which incorporated the existing door into its design.
Notable shows include Wicked (two years), Bring It On: The Musical, Evita, Mama Mia! and The Act. In 1976, six Grateful Dead shows. In 2007, hosted Late Night with Conan O’Brien. In 1933, Mae West visited to promote her new film “I’m No Angel.” In 1997, marquee created during renovations according to original drawings. Tours available.
San Francisco Zoo* (1929)
Originally the Fleishhacker Zoo, it is home to over 1,000 animals representing 250 species and was among the first bar-less exhibits in the US. Birthplace of Koko the gorilla and home of the oldest black rhinoceros in North America. A newly hatched bald eagle was named after comedian Stephen Colbert.
In 2006, a 242-pound Siberian tiger attacked her zookeeper. In 2007, after being taunted and pummeled by sticks the same tiger escaped and attacked three visitors; killing one of them before being later shot by police.
Coit Tower (1933)
The Lillian Coit Memorial Tower is a 210-foot Art Deco tower of unpainted concrete with fresco murals by 29 artists. Rumored to resemble a fire hose nozzle due to the honorary firefighter status of its benefactor — Lillie Hitchcock Coit — who used to gamble (often dressed as a man due to male-only establishments), smoke cigars, wear trousers and frequently seen riding with Knickerbocker Engine Co. 5 chasing fires!
Exhibition area in the tower, observation deck and large-scale projections on the exterior at various times. Featured in the film Vertigo (according to Hitchcock “It’s a phallic symbol”).
Alcatraz Island (1934)
Small island named after the Spanish word for “pelican” with facilities including early Spanish structures, a lighthouse (1854, the first on the West Coast), military fort (never fired guns offensively), military prison (1868, Confederate prisoners), and federal prison (1934–63).
The federal prison was designed for troublesome inmates from other prisons and famously held Al Capone (Convict #85, the warden was so worried about security the entire train car was loaded onto a barge instead of unloading prisoners, played in a banjo band called the Rock Islanders), Robert Stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz,” subject of a 1962 film, actually wasn’t allowed birds on the island), Victor Lustig (con artist who sold the Eiffel Tower…twice!) and James “Whitey” Bulger (the inspiration for Jack Nicholson’s character in The Departed).
Not as tough as Hollywood portrayals it had single person cells, was never full to capacity, had no “Death Row,” good food (with unlimited servings), a library (15,000 books), and the only federal prison at the time with warm showers (to soften prisoners against the freezing bay waters). Many prisoners actually requested to be moved to Alcatraz. Officially nobody escaped (36 prisoner attempts, 23 caught, 6 shot, 2 drowned, 5 presumed drowned), but in 1962 it’s believed three men pulled off one of the most intricate escapes ever devised (dug with spoons, decoy dummies, a makeshift raft) inspiring the 1979 film Escape from Alcatraz. The mother of two of the men received flowers anonymously every Mother’s Day until she died and two tall unknown women were reported to have attended the funeral!
In 1946, a failed escape led to the Battle of Alcatraz. In 1962, a prisoner greased himself with lard, squeezed through a window, and swam to shore only to be found unconscious on shore by police. In 1962, the famous escape from Alcatraz. In 1969, occupied for 19 months by Native American protestors. In 2014, Ai Weiwei installed a series of Lego portraits of political prisoners.
Featured in the films The Book of Eli, X-Men: The Last Stand, Catch Me If You Can, The Rock (premiered on the island, windsurfer wearing a tuxedo shirt crashed the celebrity party and had a cocktail with Sean Connery before being caught!), Murder in the First, Escape from Alcatraz, The Enforcer, Point Blank, and Birdman of Alcatraz. Also features in the television series Alcatraz and video game Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater 4. Site of the annual Escape from Alcatraz triathlon.
Golden Gate Bridge (1937)
The “most photographed bridge in the world” spans a mile across the Golden Gate Strait, which connects San Francisco Bay to the Pacific Ocean. Built to replace the ferry service operating since 1820 (at the time the largest US city still served primarily by boat), it was the longest suspension bridge in the world until 1964 and world’s tallest until 1998. The famous International Orange color was simply the sealant — the Navy wanted it painted black and yellow for visibility. Each of the 80,000 miles of cable is made of over 27,000 strands of wire…and the bridge contains around 1.2 million rivets.
Estimated to cost $100 million (over $2 billion today), an ambitious and inexperienced Joseph Strauss promised it could be built for $17 million and spent a decade drumming up support. Once built, he downplayed the contributions of his senior engineer — the University of Illinois professor of engineering (despite not having an engineering degree!) — who implemented the “deflection theory” flexible roadway. Fired in 1931, Ellis obsessed with the project and continued to work unpaid 70 hours a week. Finished $1.3 million under budget and ahead of schedule, Strauss wrote a poem that is now on the Golden Gate Bridge entitled “The Mighty Task is Done.”
Strauss did innovate the use of a movable safety net, which saved the lives of 19 men (who became members of the Half Way to Hell Club). In 1937, a scaffold fell through the net sending twelve workers plunging 200-feet into the icy waters below (only two survived). Opening celebrations saw 200,000 people cross on foot and an official song “There’s a Silver Moon on the Golden Gate” was chosen to commemorate the event. The next day President Roosevelt pushed a button in D.C. to officially start vehicle traffic.
In 1938, the Bridge Round House diner was built (renovated 2012). In 1955, a statue of Strauss was moved near the bridge. In 1987, for the 50th anniversary pedestrians were once again permitted to cross the bridge — which saw 750,000 participants (roughly 300,000 on the bridge at once) cause the bridge to flatten out! In 2012, for the 75th anniversary a visitor center dubbed the “Bridge Pavilion” opened. In 2017, as the second-most used (over 3,000) suicide bridge in the world (26 survivors) barriers have begun to be installed.
Featured in the films The Abyss, Ant-Man, Basic Instinct, A View to Kill, Big Trouble in Little China, Dirty Harry, Escape From Alcatraz, Godzilla, Hulk, Interview with the Vampire, The Maltese Falcon, Milk, Mrs. Doubtfire, National Lampoon’s Vacation, Pacific Rim, Raiders of the Lost Arc, The Room, The Rock, The Social Network, Star Trek, Sudden Impact, Superman: The Movie, Terminator Salvation, X-Men: The Last Stand and the TV shows Charmed, Family Guy, Full House Futurama, Sliders, Stargate: Atlantis, Star Trek (various), and The West Wing. Popular with walkers and riders, across the bridge is Muir Woods — an unspoiled stand of giant redwoods.
Botanical Garden* (1940)
Formerly the Strybing Arboretum, 55 acres and over 50,000 individual plants.
Ghirardelli Square (1964)
Originally to be the headquarters of the chocolate company and now a public square with shops and restaurants (lower floors of the clock tower are currently a Ghirardelli chocolate shop). In 2008, part of the former clock tower opened as the five-star Fairmont Heritage Place hotel.
Palace of Fine Arts* (1965)
One of ten palaces built for the 1915 Exposition (one of few to remain) and rebuilt in 1965 (as it was not originally built to last). Used as an exhibition hall, 18 tennis courts, WWII storage, limousine storage, telephone book distribution center, 966-seat theatre, and temporary Fire Department headquarters. Featured in Vertigo, Time After Time, The Room, and The Rock.
The Fillmore* (1965)
Originally the Majestic Hall (1912), Ambassador Roller Skating Rink (1939), and then the Fillmore Auditorium (1954). A historic music venue pioneering the use of light-show projections, strobe lights and uninhibited dancing. Known for psychedelic concert posters given to fans (a collection is on display in the auditorium), free apples and a greeter on entry. Referenced in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.
Hosted the first US performances of The Grateful Dead (played 51 times!), Janis Joplin, Led Zeppelin, and Jefferson Airplane. Other performances include The Velvet Underground and Nico (1966), The Doors, Jimi Hendrix Experience, Santana, Frank Zappa, Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Who, Cream, Pink Floyd, Miles Davis, Aretha Franklin, Otis Redding, and B.B. King. During the early 1980s became a punk venue The Elite Club, which hosted Bad Religion, Black Flag, and The Dead Kennedys. Reopened in 1994 with an unannounced show by The Smashing Pumpkins.
Asian Art Museum* (1966, relocated 2003)
Officially the Chong-Moon Lee Center for Asian Art and Culture, it holds one of the most comprehensive Asian art collections in the world with over 18,000 works — some over 6,000 years old — and a Japanese tea house imported from Kyoto. Founded in 1966 and housed in de Young until 2003, the current building was built in 1917.
Transamerica Pyramid (1972)
The second-tallest skyscraper in the city (surpassed by the under-construction Salesforce Tower) and once the eighth-tallest building in the world. During Christmas, Independence Day and 9/11 a beacon called the “Crown Jewel” is lit at the top. At the base is a plaque commemorating two famous local dogs, Bummer and Lazarus, known in the 1860s for their unique bond and rat-killing ability. Another plaque lies above the 1849 whaling vessel Niantic.
Not open to the public (the observation deck closed after 9/11…for some reason?).
Cable Car Museum* (1974)
Features several old cable cars including Clay Street (the only surviving car from the first cable car company) and Sutter Street (1870s). Part of the cable car power house and car depot (“the barn”) — which are viewable from overlook galleries.
Musée Mécanique (1972)
One of the largest private collections of mechanical penny arcade games, music boxes, fortune tellers, love testers, peep shows, dioramas and pinball machines. Originally at Playland before briefly in the basement of the Cliff House during the 1960s.
Highlights include a large carnival diorama complete with Ferris wheel, the only steam-powered motorcycle in the world (1912), Royal Court diorama (featured at the Panama-Pacific Exposition), toothpick machines made by prisoners, and Laffing Sal — a “famously creepy” 6ft laughing automaton. Featured in the film The Princess Diaries. Free to visit, cost to play.
Pier 39 (1978)
Popular tourist shopping center with restaurants, video arcade, Aquarium of the Bay*, and two-story carousel. Offers views of Seal Rock, Angel Island, Alcatraz, and the Golden Gate Bridge.
San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park* (1988)
Fleet of historic vessels moored at Hyde Street Pier including the Balclutha (1886 sailing ship), C.A. Thayer (1895 schooner), Eureka (1890 steam ferry), Alma (1891 schooner), Hercules (1907 steam tug) and Eppleton Hall (1914 paddlewheel tug).
Yerba Buena Gardens (1993)
A garden, performance spaces, the YBCA and Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial — which is located behind the largest waterfall on the West Coast. At various times also contains an ice-skating rink, bowling alley and a restored 1905 carousel.
The Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (YBCA) is a contemporary arts center for music, fine arts, dance and video. Site of launches for iPod and iPad products. Named after the Mexican territory that later became San Francisco.
SFMOMA (1995, reopened 2016)
The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is the first museum on the West Coast devoted solely to 20th century art and includes over 33,000 works spanning 170,000-square-feet — making it one of the largest contemporary museums in the world. Founded in 1935, held the first solo museum shows of Arshile Gorky and a young Jackson Pollock.
In 1936, it became one of the first museums to recognize photography as fine art. In 2009, the Fisher Collection went on loan to the museum for 100 years. In 2009, a 14,000-square-foot rooftop garden opened with the largest “living wall” in the city.
Notable works by Pollock, Calder, Close, de Kooning, Lichtenstein, Warhol, Johns, Rauschenberg, Bacon, Mondrain, Duchamp (Fountain), Rothko, Stella, Bourgeois, Rivera, Kahlo, Conner, Koons, and Hopper. Features a cafe (Sightglass), fine dining (In Situ) and mobile app tour guide (with location tracking).
AT&T Park (2000)
The home of the Giants following — relocation from New York in 1958— was renamed three times in six years (Pacific Bell Park, SBC Park). Right field wall made of brick and 24-feet high in honor of Willie Mays, who wore number 24. Beyond right field is the China Basin — a portion of San Francisco Bay dubbed McCovey Cove (after Willie McCovey) into which 75 (35 by Bonds alone) “splash hit” home runs have been scored. Hits are tallied on an electronic counter and fans roam the water on boats in the hopes of fishing out a home run ball. During the Barry Bonds era, fans would line up rubber chickens every time a player was intentionally walked to show the opposition was “chicken.” Stadium contains two of the six retired pre-number era jerseys.
“The Coca-Cola Fan Lot” behind left field bleachers features an 80-foot bottle, slides that light up on every Giants home run, and miniature model of the stadium. Bubbles were originally meant to accompany the bottle, but never worked properly and were removed. Other stadium features include a “Giant 1927 Old-Time Four-Fingered Baseball Glove,” retired cable car (with a sign stating “No Dodgers Fans Allowed”), fog horn, Barry Bonds T-ball park, and manually operated boards. Six statues outside the ballpark include Willie Mays (surrounded by 24 palm trees honoring his uniform number), Willie McCovey (across McCovey Cove) and Seals Plaza — seal statue honoring the San Francisco Seals minor league club.
In 2001, Barry Bonds set the single-season home run record (73). In 2004, 122 wireless internet access points were installed creating one of the largest hotspots in the world. In 2006, the US soccer team defeated Japan in a friendly. In 2006, the first ICER AIR ski and snowboard competition in the US. In 2006, Barry Bonds passed Babe Ruth in home runs (715). In 2007, Bonds passed Hank Aaron to become the top home run hitter of all-time (756). In 2008, a Wall of Fame (honoring 43 players) was unveiled for the 50th anniversary of the Giants in San Francisco. In 2009, the park’s first no-hitter. In 2010, 2012 and 2014 World Series champions. In 2011, World Football Challenge between Manchester City and Club America. In 2012, 22nd perfect pitching game in MLB history. In 2013, Kanye West rented the entire stadium to propose to Kim Kardashian. In 2018, recorded 530 consecutive sellouts (second-longest behind Fenway Park).
Performances by the Rolling Stones (2002, 2005), Bruce Springsteen (2003), Green Day (2005), Paul McCartney (2010), Beyonce and Jay-Z (2014), Billy Joel (2015), AC/DC (2015), Metallica (2016, 2017), Guns N’ Roses (2016) and Lady Gaga (2017). Other events include college football (Foster Farms Bowl), AMA Supercross Championship (2003 to 2010) and San Francisco Opera broadcasts.
Crissy Field (2001)
Former salt marsh, US airfield and dumpsite for hazardous materials — most buildings preserved as they were in the 1920s. Currently the site of trails, boardwalks, a grass airfield, cafe, Crissy Field Center (environmental education), the Marina District, SFMOMA sculptures, and George Lucas’ Industrial Light & Magic studios.
In 1924, the site of the first successful dawn-to-dusk transcontinental flight across the US. Also in 1924, a stop for the army’s first aerial circumnavigation of the globe. In 1925, two Navy planes attempted to fly to Hawaii but ran short of fuel and had to be rescued at sea after 12 days! In 1927, the first successful flight to Hawaii aboard the Birds of Paradise.
Pink Triangle Park* (2001)
A small triangular-shaped park with the first permanent memorial in America to the thousands gay victims of the Holocaust — fifteen triangular granite columns (one for every 1,000 estimated victims) in a triangular pattern surround a pink a pink-quartz-filled triangle in the center of the park. The triangle theme recalls the Nazis forcing gay men to wear pink triangles sewn to their clothes as an identifier and badge of shame.
de Young Museum* (2005)
Fine arts museum with the largest collection of American art on the West Coast (over 1,000 paintings, 800 sculptures, 3,000 decorative arts) and one of the largest textiles collections (over 13,000 items) in the world. Founded in 1895 (the city’s oldest public museum), the original Egyptian-style building was demolished in 1929 and the replacement building severely damaged by the 1989 earthquake. The only original elements of the old museum are the vases and sphinxes near the Pool of Enchantment and palm trees outside the entrance.
The current building is designed by the same architects as the London Tate Modern and was inspired by a collapsed windmill on Ocean Beach. It contains over 163,000-square-feet of copper designed to oxidize (i.e. greenish tone) over time, features a 144-foot observation tower with 360-degree views, sculpture garden, and auditorium seats made from old baseball gloves.
Highlights include Copley, Cole (Prometheus Bound), Thomas Wood (Newspaper Vendor), Edmund C. Tarbell (The Blue Veil), Thomas Hart Benton (Susannah and the Elders), Thiebaud, Turkmen carpets, rare 15th-century silks, and Anatolian kilims.
California Academy of Sciences* (2008)
One of the largest museums of natural history in the world housing over 26 million specimens. Founded in 1853, the current building covers 400,000-square-feet and has a green roof covered in 1.7 million native plants. Features the world’s largest fully digital planetarium, a rainforest display enclosed within a 90-foot glass dome, and aquarium with African penguins.
Contemporary Jewish Museum* (1984, relocated 2008)
Comprising two sections — “Yud” (a tilted stainless steel cube sliced into the original brick lit by 36 diamond-shaped windows) and “Chet” (a slanted rectangular building holding the lobby). With no permanent collection, it hosts sound and performance exhibitions. Wise Sons deli.
Walt Disney Family Museum* (2009)
A non-profit organization formerly owned and operated by the Disney Foundation. 40,000-square-feet of early drawings, animation, Fantasia-inspired theatre (daily screenings), a 12-foot model of Disneyland, and pieces from the Carolwood Pacific Railroad — built by Walt in his backyard as a child.
Contains all 248 awards including a Presidential Medal of Freedom and 32 Academy Awards — the most ever — including a full-sized Oscar alongside seven miniatures awarded for Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs!
Fun facts: a cartoonist for his high school newspaper, lied about his age to join the military, his first animation studio (Laugh-O-Films) went bankrupt, Mikey Mouse’s original name was Mortimer Mouse, and Steamboat Willie was the first cartoon with synchronized sound.
Exploratorium* (1969, relocated 2013)
Interactive science museum founded by Frank Oppenheimer (father of the Manhattan Project) at the Palace of Fine Arts (with no fanfare, he simply “opened the doors”). Currently in a historic shipping building (lettering preserved) with the goal of becoming the largest sustainable museum in the US.
Features a two-person drinking fountain based on Prisoner’s dilemma (negotiation and trust), Tactile Dome (pitch-black room), Tinkerer’s Clock (22-foot tall), Rolling Through The Bay (100,000 toothpick sculpture made over the course of 37 years!), Sound Bite (hearing with the jawbone) and Bright Black (black object appears white), Glass Settling Plate (barnacles grown in the bay), Oculus (circular opening in the ceiling that allows the entire gallery to be used as a timepiece, tracking seasons, solstices, and the sun’s movement), Visualizing the Bay (a 3-D topographic map of the bay), Wired Pier (sensors around the Bay streaming realtime data to interactive visualizations), Fog Bridge #72494 (creates bursts of fog every half-hour) and Wave Organ (acoustic sculpture).
Wells Fargo History Museum (2014)
Flagship museum located at the corporate headquarters and site of the first Wells Fargo in 1852. Vintage bank machines, telegraphs and a replica stagecoach.
Eat
Bi-Rite (groceries), Bi-Rite Creamery (ice-cream), Blue Bottle (coffee, first standalone location on Linden St, named after one of Europe’s first cafes — The Blue Bottle Coffee House), Caffe Trieste*, Coffee Mission*, Dottie’s True Blue Cafe*, Four Barrel (coffee), Ghirardelli (chocolate, original location in North Point), Hot Cookie Bakery (interestingly shaped cookies), House of Nanking*, Linea (coffee), Mandalay*, Outerlands*, Ritual (coffee), Sightglass (coffee), Smitten Ice-Cream, Super Duper Burgers, Taquería El Farolito, Tartine Bakery, Trou Nomad*
Drink
15 Romolo* (cocktails), ABV*, Black Hammer Brewing*, Bourbon & Branch* (cocktails), Cellarmaker Brewing*, City Beer Store*, Coin-Op Game Room (arcade bar), Local Brewing Co., Golden Gate Tap Room (sports bar), Hard Water*, Mikkeller (strong beer), Rogue Ales Public House (brewery), Slide* (former speakeasy with slide from street to basement — remade — and wooden mallets on tables for applauding, features in the early film The Jazz Singer), Smuggler’s Cove*, Specs’ Twelve Adler Museum Cafe (old, stuff on walls), Standard Deviant Brewing*, The Armory Club (owners of Kink.com), The Riptide*, Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar (tiki, band plays on an indoor boat with lightning!), Tosca Cafe (cocktails), Twin Peaks Tavern* (first clear-glass exposed gay bar in the city and possibly the US)
Shop
Amoeba* (music), Benny Gold (streetwear), Borderlands (sci-fi books), City Lights (books), Decades of Fashion, Distractions (burner gear), Dog Eared Books, Fantastico (crafting), Held Over, Loved to Death, Nice Kicks (sneakers), Paxton Gate (taxidermy), Piedmont Boutique (clothing), Pirate Supply Store (pirate gear benefiting writing workshop), RazerStore (video games, free play), RCVA (streetwear), Retro Fit (clothing), Stuff (bazaar), The Bindery (books, second locations back room bar), Unionmade* (clothing), Wasteland, Woot Bear (art/toys)
See
Alamo Drafthouse (film), Amado’s* (music), Foreign Cinema* (outdoor, food, since 1999), Frank Lloyd Wright Spiral Interior (1948, his only building in the city and prototype for the Guggenheim Museum), The Endup (after-hours club, no alcohol)
Do
- Alcatraz (night tour)
- Giants (MLB)
- Warriors (NBA)
- Rose Parade* (Jan)
- Bring Your Own Big Wheel* (April)
- Bay to Breakers (May)
- Escape from Alcatraz* (June)
- Pride Parade* (June)
- San Francisco Marathon* (July)
Oakland & Surrounding
Oracle Arena (1966)
Known as the Oakland-Alameda County Coliseum Arena until 1996, the oldest arena in the NBA. Hosted the 2015–17 NBA Finals with the hometown Warriors winning in 2015 and 2017. Hosted the California Seals hockey team from 1966 to 1975, ABA Oakland Oaks from 1967–69 where they won an ABA championship in 1969 with Rick Barry and Larry Brown. Roller hockey between 1993 and 1995. One of the smallest capacities (15,000) before renovations in 1996. Sponsored by Oracle in 1996, “The O” often called “Roaracle” because of loud crowds. Sold out 230 continuous home games. Grateful Dead hold the record with 66 concerts. Replaced with new arena in San Francisco scheduled for 2019.
Eat/Drink: The Trappist, Lost & Found, Lake Merritt
Out of town: Yosemite National Park, Napa Valley (wine region)
