Belgrade Tourist

The White Fenix.

21 min readOct 12, 2024

Invited to celebrate a first birthday (and baptism) by some close Amsterdam friends! Made to feel incredibly welcome and looked after.

Tesla airport (Никола Тесла), Cyrillic (drunk alphabet), airport pickup (too nice), great coffee and cocktails, cheap, hostel, breakfast bureks, Mirko and Dubravka walking tour (licitar hearts, Šumadija Opans), university visit, drinking yogurt with food, great weather, street clothing, fortress visit (Red Star Belgrade vs Partizan Belgrade), oldest tavern, museum visit, buying a tie, car park bar area, cool car park art place, cocktails, smoking inside (what year is it? adapt too quickly), communist-era architecture, stray dogs, no shorts (government buildings, cocktail bars, churches), and very walkable (15 minute radius).

Off-duty cab ride to Vršac (pronounced “voor-shatz”), driver very little english, passing military tanks, “gypsy” (ornate) houses, really nice accommodation, bringing a second shirt (sweat through first), 15th-century monastery (lines for the store, lighting candles, honey), Orthodox baptism (men and women separated, family choir, a million sign-of-the-crosses, incense ball nunchaku, boy fainting, aggressive cross-on-head baptism pour), winery first birthday party (food, dancing, clipping money to the band members, where are the children?), different winery (very fancy, band, smoking, post-dinner basement tour, only 4 types of wine?), late-night Smoki (“eat until your gums hurt”) stop, more breakfast bureks, pharmacy museum (with taxidermy), incredible lunch (rustic barnhouse feel, huge, decorations everywhere, meat coma), and Mirko the town mayor.

Back to Belgrade, Yugoslavia AirBnb (retro vibes, shared split apartment, right across the road from the hostel!), wine bars with new friends (none of the “Serbian” wines were from Serbia), Dogma craft beer, morning market (dead on Mondays), mobile (car) bookstores, grand Orthodox churches, Tesla museum (cash only sprint to change money, cheesy, urn) to Tesla airport, CAR:GO (ride sharing), and lost luggage (woefully incompetent KLM clerk, 10min/person).

About

One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and at the crossroads of the Pannonian Plain and the Balkan Peninsula. The capital city of Serbia and most populous (1.6 million people) city on the Danube river.

One of the foremost financial (the Belgrade Stock Exchange was founded in 1894) and information technology (Microsoft, Asus, Intel, Dell, Huawei) hubs of Southeast Europe. Hosted the Danube River Conference (1948), FINA World Aquatics Championships (1973), UEFA Euro (1976), EuroBasket (1961, 1975, 2005), and The Eurovision Song Contest (2008).

History

Inhabited by the Neolithic Starčevo (6200 BC); Vinča (5500 BC); Thraco-Dacians; Celts (279 BC); Romans (second century); Slavs (520s); Byzantine Empire; Frankish Empire; Bulgarian Empire, Kingdom of Hungary; Ottoman Empire (1521); Habsburg; the Serbian Revolution (1841); and full independence (1882). From 1918 to 2006, the capital of Yugoslavia.

In a strategic position, the city has been battled over in 115 wars, razed 44 times, bombed five times, and besieged many times. Following the WWII the number of Jews fell from over 10,000 to just 295. In 1999, NATO bombed Belgrade (then part of Yugoslavia) via air raids during the Kosovo War — which lasted 78 days and killed two thousand civilians — and included the controversial use of cluster bombs, depleted uranium, and graphite bombs; some of which are claimed to be in violation of international law.

Food

Very meat-forward.

Burek (or börek) are an Ottoman family of pastries made of a thin flaky dough with a variety of fillings (e.g. meat, cheese, spinach, or potatoes). Popular for breakfast.
Pljeskavica is a grilled dish consisting of a mixture of spiced minced pork, beef and lamb meat. The “hamburger’s illegitimate brother” is one of the national dishes.
Ćevapi is a grilled dish of minced meat (similar to a kebab with chopped onion and sour cream) and one of the national dishes.
Kajmak is a mildly-fermented dairy food (similar to clotted cream) made from the milk of water buffalo, cows, sheep, or goats.
Knedle sa šljivama are potato-based dessert dumplings, which are stuffed (traditionally plum), boiled, and rolled in cinnamon.

Nightlife

Since 2018 the cocktail bar scene has exploded — offering amazing drinks at a fraction of the price of other cities.

Kafanas (derived from the word for coffee) are a distinct type of local bistro (or tavern), common in former Yugoslav countries, which primarily serves alcoholic beverages, coffee, and light snacks (meze). Many feature live music.
Rakia (or rakija) is a double-distilled fruit brandy popular in the Balkans. Moonshine for centuries, the first legal rakia distillery — Bojkovčanka, which is located 15 kilometers south of Belgrade — was founded in 1985. Today there are over 800 registered distilleries in Serbia. Typically served in tulip-shaped glasses, to be sipped as an aperitif before meals.
Splavovi (or splav for short) are floating barges anchored along the Danube and Sava rivers. Open every day in the summer and frequented by locals.

Fun Facts

Belgrade has changed names 15 different times.
Tennis player Novak Djokovic was born in Belgrade. Nikola Tesla was born in Croatia, but spent much of his childhood in Belgrade. Nobel Prize-winning Blakan author Ivo Andric died in Belgrade.

Map

Note: An asterisk (*) denotes a place I have not yet visited.

Belgrade Fortress (279 BC)

The most-visited (estimated 2 million visitors annually) attraction in Belgrade consists of an old citadel and Kalemegdan Park located on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The core and the oldest section of the urban area of Belgrade; for centuries, the city population was concentrated only within the walls of the fortress. Known for its kilometers-long tunnels, underground corridors and catacombs — which are still largely unexplored.

Founded by the Celts and later conquered by the Romans before being repeatedly destroyed by Goth and Hun invasions. Legend says that Attila’s grave lies under the fortress. In 535, rebuilt by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. The fortress kept changing its masters: Bulgaria during three centuries, and then the Byzantines and then again Bulgarians. In 1521, conquered by the Turks and remained under the Ottoman Empire until 1867. Damaged during both World Wars. In 1979, declared a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance.

Contains 19 memorial busts, 18 archaeological digs, six moments, restaurants, sporting courts (tennis, basketball), two fountains, two churches, and two galleries. Also features the Mehmed Paša Sokolović Fountain (1577), Gate of Charles VI (rebuilt 1943), Museum of Natural History (1830s-1840s), Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments (1904), Bunker (1948–1949), and Basketball monument (2018).

Notable concerts include Simply Red (2009), Amy Winehouse (2011), Moby (2011), Prodigy (2012), Skrillex (2012), Green Day (2013), Iron Maiden (2014), Interpol (2017), and Thievery Corporation (2024).

Kalemegdan Park

The most popular park among Belgraders. Hosts an annual 6km race.

Roman Well* (15th Century)

Neither Roman or a well! Named “Roman Well” in the 19th century under the common belief that all old buildings were Roman. Formerly a medieval dungeon and turned into a cistern by Austrians between 1717 to 1731. The upper section is open for visitors, while the descent is forbidden due to the safety reasons.

In 1940, Yugoslav Royal Army emptied the well leading to a myth that the gold from the National bank of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia was hidden inside. In 1954, a man threw his mistress into the well — her body resurfaced ten days later. In 1964, Alfred Hitchcock visited the well and praised the “ambience.” In 1968, divers discovered two human skeletons. Between 2007 and 2014, closed for reconstruction.

Gunpowder Magazine (Barutana)* (1720s)

Built during the Austrian occupation of Belgrade, after they destroyed the old magazine with a direct hit during the 1717 Siege of Belgrade — the explosion which followed allowed the Austrians to capture the city. Located 7 meters below ground and embellished with Roman artifacts discovered in-or-around the fortress.

Damad Ali Pasha Turbe* (1784)

Mausoleum over the grave of Izzet Mehmed Pasha, Grand Vizier of Belgrade. Dedicated to Damad Ali Pasha, a Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire between 1713 and 16. One of the few remaining monuments of Islamic architecture in Belgrade. In 1819, reconstructed.

Military Museum* (founded 1878)

Over 3,000 ancient and items including Roman swords and helmets, Greek helmets and daggers, Serbian heavy knight’s armour, axes, shields, helmets, crossbows, armoured gloves, and Western medieval weapons. Modern items include tanks, armoured cars, howitzers, guns, firearms, equipment, and uniforms.

Some were acquired during World War II, when they were captured by the Red Army and Yugoslav Partisans from retreating Nazi and Axis forces (Belgrade Offensive). One exhibit features parts of a US F-117 stealth aircraft which was downed by a Serbian S-125 Neva/Pechora.

Ružica Church (1925)

The original church was built in the early 15th century, was remodelled in 1869, and fully reconstructed in 1925. The church is dedicated to the Nativity of Mary.

During the 1925 reconstruction, two statues were sculptured and placed at the entrance — a lancer from the period of Emperor Dušan and an infantry soldier from the Balkan Wars period. Two large polyeleos chandeliers and three large candelabra are made of melted military materials: rifle and pistol bullets, shell cases and sabres. In 1926, the unexploded grenade above the church was deactivated and removed.

The Victor (1928)

14-meter bronze statue commemorating Serbia’s victory over the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires during the Balkan Wars and the First World War. Cast in 1913 by Croatian sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. One of the most visited tourist attractions in Belgrade.

The statue holds a falcon and a sword as symbols of peace and war. The statue looks forward across the confluence of the Sava and the Danube, and over the vast Pannonian plain.

In 1927, public controversy on moral and artistic grounds due to male nudity. In 2019, removed to straighten the monument and repair the statue (returned 2020).

Monument of Gratitude to France (1930)

Unveiled on the 12th anniversary day of the end of the First World War. Honoring the Franco-Serbian force that liberated Serbia, Albania, and Montenegro. Designed by Croatian sculptor, Ivan Meštrović, it represents represents France rushing to Serbia’s aid.

In 1999, after France joined the NATO attack on Serbia a group of young citizens covered the monument with black cloth and placed a writing “May there be eternal glory to the France that doesn’t exist anymore”. In 2018, removed for repair.

Belgrade Zoo* (1936)

One of the oldest public zoos in southeastern Europe. Covers 17 acres and houses a collection of 210 animal species, with approximately 800 individuals. Around 400,000 annual visitors. Notable attractions include a pair of white lions, a white buffalo, a pair of white tigers, 17 penguins, and the oldest (estimated born 1935) American alligator.

In 1988, a chimpanzee escaped and wandered through downtown Belgrade for an hour before being retrieved and driven home in the zoo manager’s car! Two days later the ape escaped again! In 1987, an escaped jaguar and attacked a German shepherd.

Zemun Fortress* (9th Century)

Medieval fortification built on top of the old Celtic, and then Roman town of Taurunum. Built during the height of the Byzantine Empire, it suffered great damage during the First Crusade.

In 1127, the Hungarians captured the fortress. In 1397, Ottomans destroyed the town. Today, there are remains of a square citadel, with four large circular towers in the corners. The length of each wall of the citadel is around 45 meters.

Gardoš Tower (1896)*

Also known as Millennium Tower, it is a memorial tower to celebrate a thousand years of Hungarian settlement in the Pannonian plain. Located with the Zemun fortress.

Severely damaged in 1914 during the Austrian-Serbian fighting in the World War I. By 2006, the tower was severely neglected with no doors or windows; a gathering place for homeless and drug addicts. Renovated and reopened as an art gallery.

? (Question Mark) (1823)

The oldest, still-operational traditional tavern (kafana) in Belgrade. One of the city’s best known landmarks, it offers traditional Balkan cuisine accompanied by starogradska music.

In the early 1830s, frequented by Serbian linguist and language reformer Vuk Stefanović Karadžić. In 1878, renamed to “?” after a dispute with the Serbian Orthodox Church over the new owner’s intention to change its name to Kod Saborne crkve (“By the Saborna Church”) — as a temporary solution, the tavern’s owner put a question mark on the door, and it soon became the official name.

St. Michael’s Cathedral (1840)

A Serbian Orthodox cathedral church and one of the most important places of worship in the country. Famous 19th-century Serbian painter, Dimitrije Avramović, painted eighteen big wall compositions and almost fifty icons within the church. The church contains various relics and tombs — such as Serbian writer Dositej Obradović and reformer of Serbian language, Vuk Karadžić.

National Theatre* (1869)

Featuring a Grand Hall (219 seats across 3 balconies) and Raša Plaović Stage (281 seats). Programming includes theatre, opera, and ballet.

Damaged during WWII. During the 1999 NATO bombing, while there were no air strikes on Belgrade the theatre offered performances for a single dinar. Underwent reconstruction in 1989 and 2019.

Knez Mihailova Street (1870)

One kilometre main pedestrian and shopping street named after Mihailo Obrenović III, Prince of Serbia, it features a number of buildings and mansions built during the late 1870s. The shortest path from Terazije (central town square) to Kalemegdan park and fortress. The street is home to many international brands and businesses.

Notable buildings include the Srpska Kruna Hotel (1869), currently the city library); Marko Stojanović House (1889), currently the Gallery of the Academy); residential houses as №46 (1869), №48 (1869) and №50 (1870); Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts* (1924); Nikola Spasić Endowment building (1889); Nikola Spasić Passage (1912); Grčka Kraljica (1835); and the Ruski Car (1926) Art Deco restaurant.

Republic Square (1882)

A central square and one of the busiest places in Belgrade. Site of some of Belgrade’s most recognisable public buildings including the National Museum, National Theatre, and the statue of Prince Michael. Less than 100 meters away from the designated centre of Belgrade — connected by the Knez Mihailova pedestrian street.

Formerly the site of the Stambol Gate (1725), formerly the Württemberg Gate, which was the gate to the city where rebellious Serbs were publically impaled on stakes. The gate was so hated it was demolished in 1866.

In 1941, most of the buildings along the square were destroyed during German bombing. In the early 1990s, club “Buha” was one of the first Belgrade venues to play electronic music. In 2000, a digital Millennium clock was installed in the square that functioned as a meeting spot for locals; in 2019 it was relocated next to the Belgrade Arena.

Prince Mihailo Monument (1882)

The first public monument with representation of an equestrian figure of a ruler (Prince of Serbia from 1839 to 1842) in Serbia. Executed by the Italian sculptor Enrico Pazzi. Unveiling of the monument was followed by firing from a hundred and one cannons, and the ringing of bells from all the churches of Belgrade.

Presented without any kind of hat on his head, which was highly unorthodox for any dignitary. A popular meeting spot for locals is to meet “at the horse.” In 2020, reconstructed in time for the 152nd anniversary of Prince Mihailo’s assassination.

Stari Dvor* (1882) & Novi Dvor* (1922)

“The Old Palace” was formerly the residence of Serbian royal family from 1884 to 1922, currently the he Belgrade City Hall (housing both the Mayor and the City Assembly).

The Stari Konak building, in which King Alexander and Queen Draga were assassinated during the 1903 May Coup, was demolished in 1904. The palace was damaged in both World Wars. In 1930, a major restoration.

“The New Palace” was formerly the royal residence for the Kingdom of Yugoslavia from 1922 to 1934. Currently the seat of the President of Serbia. Between 1934 and 1948, the Museum of Prince Paul — one of the most modern European museums.

**Ethnographic Museum* (1901)**

One of the oldest museums in the Balkans with around 200,000 items showcasing the rural and urban culture of the Balkans — particularly the countries of former Yugoslavia. In World War I, a large number of museum items were destroyed.

National Museum of Serbia (1903, established 1844)

The largest and oldest museum in Belgrade with over 400,000 objects spread across 34 archeological, numismatic, artistic, and historical collections.

The building was built in 1903 for Uprava Fondova — the oldest financial institution in Belgrade. The museum moved into the building in 1950, with the grand opening in 1952. Closed from 2003 to 2018 for reconstruction. The building features a large mural by Mladen Josić painted in the 1930s; another mural, close to the former dome, was destroyed in the 1944 bombing.

The Archeological collection consists of sculptures from Vinca (6th–5th millennium BC); Roman artifacts; and 1,000 items from ancient Greece. Notable items include the Dupljaja Chariot (16th–13th century BC); golden masks from Trebeništa (6th century BC); household sets from Jabučje (1st century AD); the Belgrade Cameo (4th century); a Silver belt with swastika (5th century BC); and a rare gold sarcophagus and mummy of the Egyptian priest Nesmin.

The Numismatic Collection has more than 300,000 items (coins, medals, rings, seals). Notable items include a golden medallion of Emperor Valentinian I (364 AD) and silver Dinars from the reign of King Stefan Radoslav of Serbia.

The Medieval collection features the Miroslav Gospels (1186); the sarcophagus of Saint King Stefan Decanski (14th century); rings belonging to the Serbian Queen Theodora (before 1322) and King Stephen Radoslav of Serbia (1219–20); King Milutin’s mantle from the 1300s; and the Eulogy to Prince Lazar (1402).

The Yugoslav Art Collection has more than 6,000 items, including 1,700 paintings of Serbian authors from 18th to 19th century and 3,000 paintings from the 20th century. The French collection features works from Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, Rouault, Degas, and Cézanne; Italian works from Raphael and Titian; Dutch works from Mondrian, Bosch, van Dyck, Rubens, and van Gogh; Russian works from Chagall and Kandinsky.

House of the National Assembly* (1936)

The seat of the National Assembly of Serbia with 100 offices, 23 frescoes, and a 165- square-metre library. After the 1941 invasion of Yugoslavia and during World War II, the building housed the German high command for Southeastern Europe. In 2000, damaged during demonstrations where 91 pieces of art were stolen; thirty-five have been found. Featured in the 2011 film, Coriolanus.

Monument to the Unknown Hero* (1938)

A World War I memorial located atop Mount Avala on the place where an unknown Serbian World War I soldier was buried. Designed by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, Alexander I of Yugoslavia laid the foundation stone — just few months before he was assassinated in Marseilles. A ceremony every year on Victory Day (May 9th).

The monument is in the form of a black granite sarcophagus placed on a five-step pyramid (symbolising the five centuries of Ottomon occupation) surrounded by caryatids representing all the peoples of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Some of the trees planted in the surrounding area were personally donated by Adolf Hitler.

St. Mark’s Church (1940)

Serbian Orthodox church and one of the largest churches in the country — despite not yet being completed! Received a special permit to deviate 10 degrees from the strict church canonical rule concerning east-west positioning so it could line up with the street.

In 1968, the remains of Emperor Stefan Dušan were transfered to a marble tomb within the church. In 2022, the largest (130 square meters, 8.5 million pieces of baked Venetian glass) altar apses mosaic in the world was installed. Also contains a 100 kilogram beehive in the form of a scale model of the church. Beneath the church is Šalitrena cave — used in the Roman period to excavate a type of stone mostly used to make sarcophaguses.

Nikola Tesla Museum (1952)

Science museum housed in a 1927 residential vila and dedicated to the life and work of Nikola Tesla — with more than 160,000 documents, 2,000 books and journals, 1,200 exhibits, 1,500 photographs, 1,000 plans, and various instruments and apparatus. It’s also the final resting place for Tesla, with an urn containing his ashes. Cash only and very little is on display in the small ground floor exhibition space.

Museum of Contemporary Art* (1958)

The first contemporary art museum in Yugoslavia and one of the first contemporary art museums in the world. With a collection of more than 35,000 works from art produced across the former Yugoslavia. Closed between 2007 and 2017.

Features works from prominent Serbian and Yugoslav painters, along with international works by Lichtenstein, Warhol, Miró, Dalí, Hockney, Rauschenberg, Stella, Ernst, and Abramović — who was born in Belgrade and held a 2019 exhibition seen by almost 100,000 visitors.

Palace of Serbia* (1959)

Officially the Palace of the Federal Executive Council, it is a government building housing several cabinet level ministries and site for state visits of foreign head of state. The largest (65,000 square meters) building by area in the country, it consists of 744 offices, 13 conference rooms, six salons, three large halls and two garages.

After the restoration of independence of Serbia in 2006, the building got its name “Palace of Serbia” — although it has never been officially renamed.

Museum of Yugoslavia* (1962)

Formerly the Josip Broz Tito Memorial Centre, it houses a collection of over 75,000 items from the Yugoslav era and is the most visited museum in Serbia.

Beside paintings, includes Moon rocks donated by Apollo 11 crew Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins while visiting Belgrade in 1969 and from mission Apollo 17 donated by Richard Nixon in 1971. The museum also houses Joseph Stalin’s sabre with 260 brilliants and diamonds, donated by Stalin himself. Yugoslav communist revolutionary and politician, Tito’s grave is located in the House of Flowers mausoleum.

Western City Gate (1979)

Also known as the Genex Tower, it is a 36-story brutalist dual skyscraper connected with a two-story bridge and “revolving” (the revolving mechanism was never operational) restaurant at the top. The tallest building in Serbia for 42 years; also the tallest building in the Balkans for 14 years. The most striking motif of New Belgrade.

Designed to resemble a high-rise gate greeting people arriving in the city from the West (including from the Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport). One tower was formerly occupied by the Genex company. The second, taller tower, is residential. Features a 1979 mural by Lazar Vujaklija at the entrance; and the sculpture, Bird, by Miloš Šobajić.

Sava Centar* (1979)

The largest (100,000 square meters) audience hall in the country and the entire former Yugoslavia, as well as one of the biggest in Europe. Between 1977 and 2017, hosted over 35,000 events with a total of 15 million visitors.

Notable performers include Plácido Domingo, Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Nina Simone, Ray Charles, Jerry Lee Lewis, Julio Iglesias, Jeff Beck, B.B. King, Lou Reed, Roxy Music, Jethro Tull, Sting, and David Byrne.

Notable events include the Miss Serbia competition, Eurovision Song Contest selections, IMF Annual General Meeting, 55th Annual General Meeting of Interpol, 6th United Nations Conference on Trade and Development, General Meeting of UNESCO, and the final Congress of the League of Communists of Yugoslavia.

Aeronautical Museum* (1989, founded 1957)

Formerly the Yugoslav Aeronautical Museum, located adjacent to Nikola Tesla Airport it owns over 200 aircraft previously operated by the Yugoslav Air Force (both royal and communist), Serbian Air Force, and others.

Notable planes are the only known surviving Fiat G.50 and the wreckage of a downed USAF F-117 Nighthawk and F-16 Fighting Falcon, both shot down during the NATO bombing. In addition, the collection consists of more than 130 aviation engines, radars, rockets, aeronautical equipment, over 20,000 reference books and 200,000 photographs.

Belgrade Arena* (2000)

Originally planned for the 1994 Basketball World Championship, which Yugoslavia lost due to sanctions. Re-started for the 1999 World Table Tennis Championships, but lost due to the NATO bombings. A capacity of 18,386.

Hosted the EuroBasket (2005), Men’s European Volleyball Championship (2005), European Table Tennis Championships (2007), European Judo Championships (2007), Eurovision Song Contest (2008), Men’s European Water Polo Championship (2016), and the EuroLeague Final Four (2018).

Notable concerns include 50 Cent, Backstreet Boys, Beyoncé, Andrea Bocelli, Deep Purple, Nick Cave, The Chemical Brothers, Eric Clapton, Joe Cocker, Leonard Cohen, Phil Collins, Bob Dylan, Fatboy Slim, Peter Gabriel, Guns N’ Roses, Iron Maiden, Elton John, Tom Jones, Judas Priest, Alicia Keys, Lenny Kravitz, Massive Attack, The Pussycat Dolls, Queen, Jennifer Lopez, Rammstein, Rihanna, Sade, Shakira, Slash, Slayer, Slipknot, Sting, Roger Waters, and ZZ Top.

Avala Tower* (2010)

A 204 meter-tall telecommunications tower. The original tower was finished in 1965. Destroyed in 1999 by two NATO laser-guided bombs GBU-27 that hit one leg of the tower, causing its collapse. Reconstruction commenced 2006. Includes a restaurant, gallery, souvenir shop, sports fields, children’s elf village, and outdoor gym. Over 150,000 visitors per year.

Museum of Yugoslav Film Archive* (2014, founded 1949)

One of the 10 largest film archives in the world — with over 100,000 film prints; 250,000 photos; and 15,000 posters. The collection of Yugoslav films includes the oldest film — Coronation of King Peter the First from 1904 — and over 90% of all films since the Second World War. A movie theatre and exhibition hall, which has Charlie Chaplin’s stick and one of the first movies by Auguste and Louis Lumière.

Temple of Saint Sava (2017)

The largest (4,500 square meters) Orthodox church in Serbia and one of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches and it ranks among the largest churches in the world; it can hold 10,000 worshipers with a choir gallery for 800 singers. Dedicated to Saint Sava — the founder of the Serbian Orthodox Church — and built on the presumed site where his coffin was burned on a pyre by the Ottoman Empire in 1595.

Inspired by Haghia Sophia in Istanbul. Features a 70-meter dome (containing 18 gold-plated crosses); 12-meter gold-plated cross; 49 bells, crypt; treasury of Saint Sava; 20-meter central chandelier (the world’s heaviest choros); and one of the largest curved areas decorated with the mosaic techniques, which was created for over a year in Russia before being cut and transported. The facade contains over 12,000 square meters of polished white marble that took 14 months to install.

In 2019, Vladimir Putin visited the church.

See

White Bear Tavern* (1658). The oldest surviving edifice in the territory of modern Belgrade (outside the Belgrade Fortress).
Hotel Jugoslavija* (1969). One of the oldest luxurious Serbian hotels. Closed in 2006; one half reopened in 2013 as a three-star hotel.
Karaburma Residential Housing Tower* (1963). Nicknamed the “Toblerone Tower”
Eastern City Gate (1976). Officially named Rudo, is a complex of three large residential buildings and is among the most prominent structures along the Belgrade skyline.
Belgrade Milestone (1955, small bronze pyramid marking the city center), Embassy of France (1933, Art Deco building), Flower Square, Monument to Founders of Serbian Basketball (2018, amongst basketball courts)

Do

Dorćol Platz* (arts centre), Gallery SANU* (art gallery), National Bank of Serbia* (exhibitions, have your face printed on money), №2 tram* (scenic loop), Skadarlija street (cobblestone street with restaurants and bars; second-most visited area), Underground Secrets of Belgrade* (walking tour)

Coffee

Artist Specialty Coffee (fantastic), Coffee Pass, DRIP, Forum*, Kafeterija Magazin 1907 (beautiful three-story, great coffee, laptop-friendly), Knock* (small booth, open until 1am!), Pržionica*

Eat

Bajlonko* (take away burgers), Bela Reka Nacionalni Restoran*, Bloom* (breakfast/brunch), Čarli (bakery), Crna ovca* (ice-cream), Dva Jelena*, Iva* (contemporary Serbian cuisine), Ljupce Bakery*, LUFF (ice-cream), Mandarina* (pastries)

Drink

Cocktails: April Bar*, Bar Central*, Beogradski Koktel Klub (Belgrade Cocktail Club)*, Bitters Bar*, Druid*, Josephine Belgrade*, Holy Moly*, Kultura Bar*, Lady Scarlet, Lenja Buba*, Riddle Bar (excellent)
Belgrade Urban Distillery*, D Bar*, Delice Dorcol (wine), DOGMA Craft Beer Station, Gunners Pub* (craft beer), Mama Shelter (rooftop bar), Rakia Bar & Shop*, Ventil* (cheap), Zaokret (cool bar located in a car park)

Dance

Dim*, Drugstore* (abattoir-turned-brutalist club), KC GRAD* (cultural centre), Silosi* (cultural centre)

Shop

Bajloni Market (farmers market), Dechkotzar (street clothing), Jane Doe Vintage*, Kalenić Farmers Market*, Kravate i Leptir mašne Neven (1979, local silk ties), Kula (super cool art through a car park, upstairs gallery), Službeni glasnik knjižara galerija Geca Kon (beautiful 1934 bookstore)

Stay

Dorćol area
ElDiablo Hostel (decent), Yugodom (world’s first and only stay-over museum, mid-century Yugoslavia design)

Further Away

Vršac. Mesić Monastery (15th century), Helvecija 1880 (hotel, winery and restaurant), Pharmacy on Stairs (late 18th century museum), Etno Kuća Dinar (incredible themed restaurant), Vršac Castle*.